The New York Times Food Section has pitted Emilia-Romagna against Piedmont. Why force readers to choose between agnolotti and tortellini? Each has its gustatory delights. It seems like a silly, trumped up competition. Apparently, Piedmont has “an edge” because its food is concentrated in the middle of a meal or the center of a plate.” If you can peel away the way-to-precious prose, there are nuggets here: from where to find vinegar in Emilia-Romana to where to savor hazelnut and chocolate confections in Turin.

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