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North Fork, LI: A Great Dining SpotAfter you’ve toured the North Fork’s vineyards or steered your kayak through the inlets and coves that dot Peconic Bay, you’ll want to find a place to eat. Until recently, the choices were hum-drum at best: seafood emporiums with great views over the bay or Long Island Sound, but without the food to match. Now that’s all changed. Take The Fifth Season in Greenport. This eatery prides itself on serving locally grown produce and locally caught seafood. In the spare dining room, where the open kitchen is presided over by chef-owner Erik Orlowski (wife Jeniffer tends to the front of the house) you experience the informality of the North Fork. But don’t let the spare setting fool you. The cooking that comes out of the kitchen is inventive and arresting. Herb-dusted Atlantic Swordfish is so juicy and tender, it falls away from the fork. Pan-seared Shinnecock seal scallops burst with sweetness. Locally-grown and perfectly prepared stalks of asparagus are incredibly fresh with an intense, yet bright flavor. They are paired with goat cheese fritters, chive oil and and frissee to create a refreshing spring salad. The menu changes weekly to take advantage of seasonal changes in local produce, fish and other products. Why feature locally grown? Says Jeniffer, an ardent home-town booster: “We source local people as much as local products,” The Fifth Season
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