It’s been awhile since we schlepped to Queens for Greek food in Astoria. The area is getting yuppified and maybe it’s affecting the old -line ethnic restaurants.

We decided to return to Taverna Kyclades, an old Chowhound favorite that we had enjoyed a couple of years ago. But first, we made a stop at Titan Foods, the terrific Greek grocer for fresh feta, yummy eggplant salad and jars of beans and such. I spied rows of Greek olive oil and cans of grape leaves. We sampled a piece of baklava, which was predictably very sweet.

Then it was on to Taverna Kyclades, which as usual had a line of diners waiting to snag a table either inside in the plain dining room or outside on the terrace. Once seated, we ordered grilled shrimp, calamari, and swordfish, and a whole sea bass.

Wow! What a disappointment. Maybe I’m spoiled by the impeccably fresh and expertly prepared fish I dine on in North Fork, Long Island eateries, but some of these items were undistinguished. Overcooked, the swordfish had the texture of sawdust. The calamari featured that rubber band texture that means it’s overcooked. The standout: the shrimp, which were buttery and succulent.

After dinner, we went around the corner to a Greek bakery and scarfed down a bunch of confections, all of which boasted custard fillings. It was definitely the highlight of the meal.

Titan Foods
35-56 31st St.
Astoria, Queens
718 626 7771

Taverna Kyclades
33-07 Ditmars Blvd.
Astoria, Queens
718 545 8666

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