This is our last weekend on the North Fork. Am I sad? Devastated would be a better word for it. Yesterday, I made my usual farmstand rounds: Wickham’s for the season’s last peaches, Sang Lee for the largest and freshest varieties of heirloom tomatoes.

Then I remembered an impossibly fresh honeydew melon I had devoured a few weeks earlier. It came from a stand just to the east of Southold that hadn’t even been open last summer. So I went back for more melon. No honeydew this time, but there were lots of cantaloupes. “Wow, that smells ripe,” said the sunburned woman behind the counter as she sniffed the melon as I paid.

She was right. It was perfectly ready for eating. My stomach may not thank me, but I ate the entire cantaloupe last night.

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