Yes, the Upper East Side is positively carpeted with cramped French bistros serving boatloads of mussels and frites. So dining at such a neighborhood spot is not a cutting edge culinary experience. But sometimes French comfort food is just what you’re looking for.

That was the case a couple of weeks ago on a cold early spring day when we met friends at Jacques Brasserie on East 85th Street. The place is a classic East Side bistro, noisy and dimly lit. Don’t go there for a quiet tete-a-tete. The service? Efficient but not ebullient.

We all ordered mussels; they came in nicely seasoned winy broth. There wasn’t a tough or rubbery bivalve in the generous portion. Accompanied by thin, tender fries, the dish was a meal fit for a chilly evening.

Jacque’s Brasserie
206 E 85^th Street
New York, NY
212 327 2272

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