You can make this recipe with wild Alaska salmon. But if you’re at the shore in the summertime, you could use blackfish, bluefish, monkfish or grouper fillet—basically any fish that’s thick enough to stand up to grilling. (No endangered species like bluefin tuna, please.)
Preheat the grill. Create a hot side and a cooler side so you can shift the fish around to different spots as you’re grilling.
INGREDIENTS
It’s best to assemble what you’ll need before you start cooking. This is called the mise-en-place (French for “everything in its place”).
Seasoning mix for fish:
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon chili powder
½ stick sweet butter, softened
½ large bunch fresh basil leaves washed, dried and shredded
zest of one lemon
1.5 pounds thick fish fillet, cut into 4 equal pieces
8 pieces of thinly sliced Prosciutto
1 pound fresh peas in pod, shelled
8 scapes (young garlic still on stems), trimmed to about 4 inches from tops
2 shallots, peeled and finely diced
¼ cup dry vermouth
2 tablespoons good olive oil
Blend seasoning mix together, and rub on each side of the four fish portions. Then wrap each piece of fish in two overlapping pieces of Prosciutto until snug.
Mash basil, lemon zest and butter together until well blended—set aside
Into a small to medium pot of boiling salted water (you should be able to taste the salt), add the scapes. Wait 1 minute, and then add the peas. After 30 seconds, drain the peas and scapes into a bowl of iced water, to chill everything down and stop the cooking process. Drain and set aside once they are cool.
METHOD
On an oiled and very hot grill, place the 4 portions of fish flat side down on the hot side of the grill. After 3 minutes, move the fish to the cool side of the grill and turn the fillets over. Finish cooking the fish—check them after 2-3 minutes. Salmon is fine medium rare, but the other fish are usually cooked all the way through.
On the cook top, heat a 10 inch sauté pan on a medium flame, and add olive oil to the pan. Wait 30 seconds and add the shallots. Stir until softened but not browned. Add the scapes, peas and vermouth. Reduce the vermouth by half. Turn off the fire and add the softened butter. Swirl it in to make the sauce.
Put the fish on a platter, and pour sauce over it.
ACCOMPANIMENTS
Freshly made polenta, biscuits or corn on the cob would be great with this recipe, along with a sliced raw beet salad tossed with summer greens; a chilled red wine from the North Fork (or a still fruity Beaujolais or Provence rosé).
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