It’s not an exaggeration to say that Willie Mae’s Scotch House in New Orleans serves the finest

fried chicken in the known universe. Which makes the recent New York Times story dismissing southern fried chicken for its supposed lack of flavor, a complete puzzlement.

Today, we had the pleasure of making a pilgrimage to Willie Mae’s modest eatery, which is located a quick cab ride from the French Quarter.

First, this fried chicken’s crust is like no other. It accomplishes the amazing feat of being both pillowy and buttery—but without the slightest trace of greasiness. The chicken is  fried to a perfect state of crispness with a consistency that resembles tempura more than it does classic American fried foods. So deftly is this chicken immersed in its hot oil bath, that it manages to display the lacy texture of fresh-spun cotton candy. Inside this wrapper, all is moist succulence. And though the Times insists that southern fried chicken lacks seasoning, Willie Mae’s sparkled with peppery goodness.

The fact that Willie Mae’s exists at all is a small miracle.  Fundraising appeals went out after Katrina to rebuild the flood-ravaged eatery, which reopened in 2007.The outside of the small building boasts a fresh coat of white paint while most of the rest of the neighborhood is dotted with wooden bungalows pockmarked with peeling paint and rotting wood. A constant stream of taxis drops off hungry aficionados from near and far. The seductive aroma of frying chicken drifts through the door. No one budges from their place in line.

The day we were there lots of folks were sporting royal blue Florida Gator shirts for the big game with LSU. But there were also just plain fried chicken lovers, like the two guys from Virginia sitting at the next table.

“Delicious,” pronounced one, licking his fingers. “This is up there with the best.”

At Willie Mae’s, the staff is southern friendly. Lots of “yes, ma’ams.” Like in the rest of the south, iced tea is mellow without that sharp tanic acid aftertaste you find in the north. Excellent butter beans, richly flavored with pork, accompanied our chicken.

So, if you have the time and the money, skip New York’s fried chicken pretenders, hop on a plane to New Orleans, and taste what the real pros can do.

$10 will get you a plate of chicken and a side.  Another $2 gets you iced tea.

Willie Mae’s Scotch House
2401 Saint Ann Street
New Orleans, LA
504 822 9503

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