Fairway sent over some cinnamon buns for me to try. Fairway touts these buns as “shamelessly unsophisticated rounds of breakfast messiness.”

Let me say up front: cinnamon buns should be oozing with globs of gooey sugar and cinnamon. The Fairway buns do not. They are a stripped-down facsimiles of the real thing. Delicate like tea cakes, they’re not the traditional cinnamon buns sugar/fat/flour lovers dream about.

These Kosher buns, just now being introduced in Fairway stores across the region, are laced with cinnamon and brown sugar.They come a dozen to a package ($7.99) and resemble a coffee cake; you have to break each bun apart to eat it. Soon, there will be individual buns available for sale ($1.49).

The cake was a little dry. True, they sat in my house for a day. But shouldn’t supermarket baked goods have a decent shelf life?

I tried these cinnamon buns out on some of my colleagues at work. They divided into two camps: the not-sweet-and-gooey-enough group vs. the less-sugar-is-more crowd.

Kelly:  Pretty good, standard store-bought flavor. The presentation confused me. Is it cake or are you supposed to eat it like a bun?  I wouldn’t want it any sweeter. Gooey center is best, but I would consider buying it.

Lucy: Smells good, very cinnamony, but too dry. Not gooey enough.

Viola: I liked it and would buy it.

Palma: Good flavor; too dry. Would not buy it.

Dana: A little dry; would like more icing on top. Smelled good.

Barbara: Liked the strong cinnamon; not as mushy as the usual sticky bun. I would buy it.

Ann: I like the smell and coarse texture.  I prefer things that aren’t too sweet an gooey.  Great with tea. I would buy it.

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1. Fairway’s Elevator
2. Fairway to Open Up on the Upper East Side
3. Upper West Side: Fairway’s Steve Jenkins Takes on Trader Joe’s Threat