With ThanksgivingKah (aka the convergence of Hanukkah and Christmas) is almost upon us. What better way to celebrate than with an ice cream cake? I don’t know if Carvel still makes these—there’s one for Christmas, too—but I love this 1982 ad from the company.
Ice Cream Fanatics: The New Amsterdam Market’s 3rd Annual Ice Cream Sunday is Aug. 19. If you’re in NYC, stop by for ice cream from some great purveyors—plus, I’ll be signing (and selling) copies of my book, Ice Cream: A Global History.
The event’s from 12pm-4pm. I’ll be perched in a booth amongst the ice cream folks signing books from 1:30pm-3:30pm. Probably won’t have a whole lot of time to sample the ice cream. So…I hope someone brings me a few tastes.
Here’s who’s scooping and the scoop on tickets, hours, etc.
Gabrielle Carbone of THE BENT SPOON
Joseph Roselli of DREAM SCOOPS
Amy Miller of EARLY BIRD COOKERY
Tracy Obolsky of ESCA
Keren Weiner of IL BUCO & IL BUCO ALIMENTARI & VINERIA
Ashley Whitmore of MARLOW & SONS
Fany Gerson of LA NEWYORKINA
Catherine Oddenino of LUCA & BOSCO
James Distefano of ROUGE TOMATE
Forbes Fisher of STEVE’S ICE CREAM
Ben Van Leeuwen of VAN LEEUWEN ARTISAN ICE CREAM
EARLY BIRD ADMISSION $30 – Starts 12pm
(10 Tasting Tickets, redeem for 10 miniature cones)
GENERAL ADMISSION $20 – Starts 1pm
(8 Tasting Tickets, redeem for 8 miniature cones)
At the door: $35 for Early Bird and $25 for General Admission
Chozen Ice Cream, concocted by three New York women, with names and ingredients that tap into the shtetl/Jewish culinary tradition—from Matzoh Crunch to the newest flavor, Apples and Honey, is a great finish to your Seder meal. Let’s face it, Haroseth, pot roast and matzoh ball soup (hopefully, of the non-cannonball variety), calls for a light finish laced with Jewish food memories. That’s what you get with kosher Chozen.
The ice cream comes in 6 flavors:
* Ronne’s Ruglach
* Matzoh Crunch
* Coconut Macaroon
* Chocolate Gelt
* Chocolate Babka
* Apples and Honey
My personal flavor is creamy, chunky Chocolate Gelt (ok, wrong holiday), but I also enjoy Apples and Honey (again, wrong holiday, but it’s all Jewish and it’s ice cream, so who cares?), with a subtle taste of honey that ripples through the ice cream. These ice creams tend to veer slightly toward the sweet side, so serve them with fruit, or something like Melissa Clark’s Crunchy-Topped Whole-Wheat Plum Cake. (Try substituting matzoh meal for the flour.)
Here’s where you can buy Chozen:
Chef Renee Marton offers up this honey cake enriched with saffron for the Jewish New Year.
SAFFRON AND HONEY CAKE
From the land of milk and honey…
I contributed this recipe to a book called The Good Book Cookbook- Recipes from Biblical Times, by Goodman, Marcus and Woolhandler, (Dodd, Mead, 1986). I’ve re-written the recipe to reflect modern usage.
3 lightly oiled 8 ½ by 4 ½ inch loaf pans—pre-heat oven to 350 degrees F.
1 ¾ cups whole wheat pastry flour
1 ¾ cups blanched almonds, finely ground
6 eggs, separated
1 cup milk- warmed
1 cup honey
Zest of one orange, finely chopped
½ teaspoon baking soda
large pinch saffron threads
Measure out all ingredients so they are ready to use.
Soak saffron in warm milk for one hour; then add honey and orange zest.
In large bowl, beat the egg yolks with an electric beater until they form a ribbon.
In another bowl, beat egg whites with a pinch of salt until almost stiff. Refrigerate until right before you need them.
Combine flour and almonds in a large bowl—this will be the bowl into which the other ingredients are added. At this point, add baking soda to saffron milk/honey mixture.
Alternating between the saffron milk mixture and the egg yolks, beat small amounts of each into the almond flour mixture. After they are added, stir in ¼ of the whipped egg whites to loosen up the batter. Then delicately fold in the rest of the egg whites until just blended. Do not overmix.
Divide the batter evenly among the three pans. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes. Insert a toothpick into the center of the cake to see if it is “done”—it should come out clean.
Remove cakes from oven, place on a rack and cool the cakes for 30 minutes. Run a knife around the edges to loosen and gently flip the cakes out of the pan. Turn them right side up and cool completely. Wrap in plastic wrap and do not refrigerate unless you expect to keep them for more than a few days.
Claudia Fleming is one of America’s great pastry chefs. These days, you can find the former Gramercy Tavern pastry chef and her luscious desserts at the North Fork Table and Inn in Southold on Long Island’s North Fork.
If you missed the other courses for the all corn dinner, here they are:
Drinks Snack: All Corn Dinner: With Cocktails Try Chewy Corn Nibbles
First Course: Corn Dinner: First Course, Grilled Corn on the Cob
Main Course: Corn and Clam Chowder
Sweet Corn Ice Cream
4 ears of sweet summer corn (preferably white)
2 c whole milk
2 c heavy cream
¾ c granulated sugar
8 large egg yolks
Slice the kernels off the corncobs and place in a large saucepot. Break the cobs into thirds and add them to the pot along with the milk, cream and half the sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil. Remove from the heat and remove the corncobs.
Using an immersion blender, puree the corn. Return the cobs to the pot to infuse for approximately one hour.
Bring the mixture back to the heat and allow it to come to a scald. Turn off the heat. In a small bowl whisk the yolks with the remaining sugar. Slowly add 1 cup of the corn mixture to the yolks whisking constantly . Add the yolk mixture to the saucepot whisking. Cook over medium low heat , stirring continuously with a heatproof rubber spatula until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Pass the custard through a fine sieve, pressing down on the solids; discard solids. Cool custard in an ice bath, then cover and chill at least 4 hours. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturers instructions.
Source: Claudia Fleming, co/owner and pastry chef, The North Fork Table & Inn;
former pastry chef, Gramercy Tavern, New York; James Beard Award winner, Pastry Chef of the Year, 2000.