It’s been ages since we’ve been to to Telepan on 79th Street just off Columbus.We always figured it was too too pricey, especially if we combined it with tickets to a Lincoln Center event.
Chef Bill Telepan
But, boy, was our recent meal worth every penny! (No entree is priced higher than $34.50 and you can keep the price down by ordering an appetizer and “mid course,” which is ample for most diners.)
At Telepan it’s all about the food. Chef Telepan is pure chef and doesn’t make a big deal about his big talent. For example, ingredients are impeccable, but the lanky chef doesn’t feel the need to trumpet their origin obsess about this breed or that, this farm or that one. What a relief!
The standout dish was green beet and ricotta pierogi with roasted beets, ricotta salata and brown butter. The waiter explained that the beet greens formed part of the stuffing, which was luscious, and the mingling of Eastern European flavors in this unique way was incredibly inventive. A smoked trout appetizer was nearly as delicious, and a pork main dish, while the weakest link of the items we sampled on the menu, was tender and juicy.
For dessert, we had a s’more-like concoction that was essentially a richer-than-rich Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup. I was dubious because I’m not a big fan of that candy. But this dessert was sensational.
Best of all, the service is impeccable and the dining room is serene.You don’t need to scream to be heard by your dinner companion.
Great Pupusas at La Cascada, Southold, NY. Photo: Laura B. Weiss
Great pupusas in North Fork wine country? Yes, the Salvadoran street food has migrated east, specifically to Southold. As Edible East End reported recently,Restaurante La Cascada boasts the luscious vegetable- and meat-filled snacks at a restaurant in a strip mall in Southold.
Finding pupusas on the North Fork isn’t all that surprising. After all, the area farms and vineyards attract a fair number of Hispanic farm workers.
On two separate trips, I tried most of the six different pupusas on the menu. I liked the one with the loroco flower, a teardrop shaped Salvadoran plant. My friend Meryl favored the spinach and my husband loved the squash, mushroom, and pork ones.
Each pupusa, buttery and satisfying, is topped with a type of tangy slaw that plays well off the richness of the pupusas.
Both days we visited Restaurante La Cascada we were practically the only gringos in the place. There’s a full menu of standard South American fare–ranging from burritos to quesadillas.
But stick with the pupusas; they’re as large as a small dinner plate.
A single one filled me up. But who can stop at just one, especially at $1.50 apiece?
Neighborhood stalwart Edgar’s Cafe has opened a second location between 91st and 92nd streets on Amsterdam Ave.
The original locale on W. 84th Street was named after writer Edgar Allen Poe, who once resided at that address. The new Edgar’s has none of the funky atmosphere of the original; it looks like any other NY sandwich-coffee shop. But the new Edgar’s, like the original, boasts an impressive line-up of coffee drinks. And, there are more than two dozen salads to choose from, including a Mediterranean Bean Salad and a Beef Carpaccio Salad. In a nod to the immediate neighborhood’s large population of observant Jews, items, like Apple Brown Betty, are labeled “kosher.”
Though New Leaf’s food is just fine and the eatery is open year round, it’s the spring and summertime sylvan surroundings that make the schlep uptown especially worthwhile. With trees leafing out and the weather warming, what could be more relaxing than tucking into eggs or a salad on an outdoor patio? If you want a culture fix, you can wander next door to the Cloisters.
Brunch is served from 11:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday; service will start daily as the weather turns warmer. Lunch and dinner are also served.
New Leaf Restaurant and Bar
Fort Tryon Park
1 Margaret Corbin Dr.
New York, NY
nr. Arden St.
212 568 5323